Politecnico di Torino - Corso Duca degli Abruzzi, 24 - 10129 Torino, ITALY

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Gripfinger: for the climber

Finger flexorInformatica Tsd EnInstrument holdSport trainingStrenght measurementTraining session plan

Introduction

The patented technology allows you to monitor the level of preparation and the improvement any climbing practitioner, competitive or not, thanks to dynamic tests on the wall; in addition, the instrumentation allows a periodic assessment of the maximum and resistant strength of the forearm muscles, which is the one most involved in the action of climbing, through simple table tests performed by mounting a single grip on a special support; finally, the instrumented grip can be used to evaluate the recovery of any muscle and tendon injury of the forearm.

Technical features

The invention consists of an instrumented grip capable of reading in real time the three spatial components of the forces applied by the climber during the grip. The knowledge of these forces and their evolution during the sporting gesture allows to correct the setting of the movement and to minimize the effort, in order to make the execution more fluid and effective, and to monitor the progress of the athletes objectively. Having immediate feedback on the action just performed is the basis for improving performance in sport climbing. To address this problem and in particular to answer the many questions that normally arise during a regular training session, a new type of instrumented grip has been developed. The instrument consists of an instrumented base with two specially designed load cells. The base can normally be screwed on like any other socket on a gym wall and is completely wireless. This base is covered with an external shell, interchangeable and of different shapes, which constitutes the real grip. The system measures the 3 components of the force applied to the instrumented grip and their point of application during the climbing action. The system sends the data to a device capable of acquiring and displaying data up to a maximum of 4 instrumented sockets, with the aim of being able to carry out a multi-point analysis of the forces expressed by the subject, in order to obtain a complete dynamic evaluation

Possible Applications

  • Dynamic tests on the wall;
  • Athletic preparation monitoring;
  • Periodic evaluation of the maximal and resistant strength of the muscles;
  • Physical injury recovery monitoring.

Advantages

  • Wireless instrumentation;
  • Universal installation (wall, circuit, boulder, single pitch with rope);
  • Interchangeable liner shells;
  • Immediate feedback;
  • Possibility to compare the different climbing strategies;
  • Correction of the immediate gestures and guidance of the climbing preparation methods.